What the heck is Fallas?
With apologies because they are needed…
Our first day in Valencia became a rest day. David and I had walked miles in Madrid and the hurry-hurry of the train trip was not restful.
In conversation prior to this trip, I implied that the people of Valencia were viewed as being a bit crazy by the rest of Spain due to the celebration I am witnessing. That may be true. Since I arrived, I have been in awe of the Valencianos in general. Rather than attempt to give you a history of the origin of the fiesta grandioso, I will give you a link to their web sites.
Fallas of Valencia | Fallas de Valencia program and information (visitvalencia.com)
Officially beginning March 1 each year, this festival involves the entire town. While there are some who avoid it due to the noise or the crowds, or the snarled traffic, it is a city-wide endeavor. Each neighborhood has an organization or ‘casal’ that directs their participation. At the neighborhood level, it is almost totally volunteer. It takes months of planning, months of money raising, and then the building of the beautiful Fallas objects. Artists are hired and they work for months to design, get the approval of the members, and prepare each element of the often three or four story tall exhibits. At the end of the 18 days of festivities, and there is something going on almost 24/7, all of the Fallas are burned. Yes, set afire and burned. The local fire department stands by and as the artistic endeavors are consumed, douses the remaining fire.
There have been discussions about the air pollution from the burning and some effort has been made to reduce the styrofoam and plastic paints, but you are dealing with a cultural phenomenon. As you read in the history above, it has been done for over five-hundred years.
My favorite event is la mascletá. I first saw la mascletá from David’s balcony our first day in Valencia. There were bright flashes in several colors above the downtown buildings as well as huge clouds of smoke. The noise carried to his apartment, a 25-minute walk from the Plaza. I was enchanted.
Each day at 2PM, thousands of Valencianos and a few brave tourists cram themselves into Plaza de Ayuntamiento and the surrounding streets. (Some start arriving as early as 10 AM to get a seat close to the fence.) Bands are playing. Beer and other canned refreshments are drunk, and you get very cozy with the other people. It is solid people.
At 1:50, one loud boom is heard. It is the ten-minute warning. The crowd turns towards the town hall and the fenced area in front. Cheers are heard. At 1:55, another loud percussion explosion sounds. Anticipation grows in the crowd. At 2, a male tenor voice sings a beloved recording of the Valencia national anthem. (Texans will recognize it. It is popular with mariachis groups.) Many in the crowd join in on the chorus and laugh that they don’t remember the words to the verses. The leading lady of the Fallas court comes to the microphone and calls for the show to begin. And what a show!
For the next few minutes, your body is subjected to a constant steam of percussion explosions. They will be choreographed as to music with patterns and levels of sound. Each day is done by a different pyrotechnic company in competition. First prize is bragging rights and advertising copy to help travel the world putting on fireworks shows. For us in the crowd, you can feel the pressure of the explosions and the finales often make the ground vibrate. I LOVE IT!
I am going to include several pictures of the Fallas objects. I have been told that members of the casals will be seen to weep as the beautifully crafted objects are consumed by the fire. To save even one of them each year would result in a storage nightmare. Try the size of the largest aircraft hangar you have ever seen.
